When you get a surprise upgrade from a room to a suite, you can’t help but love where you are staying. So when our hosts at the B&B Dei Serafini in the peaceful Puglian seaside town of Polignano a Mare uttered the magic words, ‘you’ve been upgraded’, it was the dream start to our summer holiday.
B&B’s are advertised all over Puglia, so let me show you why starting off our week away in such a romantic setting really put a smile on our faces:
We had three floors to ourselves, each one decked out in traditional settings – the curved loft-style bedroom ceiling, and complimentary treats too, making it extra special.
Upgrade or no upgrade, Polignano a Mare is not hard to love. While the old town, encased within the city walls and accessed by the medieval arc, yawns into life from dinnertime onwards, it’s the beach that is the town’s beating heart during the day:
Perhaps the most impressive part of Polignano a Mare is the Grotta Palazzese, a fine dining, open air restaurant built into a large cave. To your left is the sea, sparkling under the moonlight, and to your right is the cave, the pool beneath it beautifully spotlit.
Heston Blumenthal might artifiically cram the sound of the sea into one of his paradoxical signature dishes, but at Grotta Palazzese, the crashing of the waves echoing all the way to the back of the cave, coupled with the backdrop of the changing colour of the sky, make for an unparalleled dinner experience.
The owners aren’t giving up the privilege of dinner in a sea cave too lightly – you need to either order three courses, or the tasting menu, to earn your seat.
You need to see it to believe it.
Too bad the rest of Puglia is just as beautiful – otherwise you’d never leave this little seaside haven.
Polignano a Mare is about an hour’s drive from Brindisi airport.